I found this rocket nice to build but is not one for the novice as it is quite fiddly with all the different aspects and configurations. This rocket can be launched in either single stage or duel stage. You can make five different rockets in all and if you order a spare nose-cone, you have got the best of both worlds. You can have two single-stage rockets, one using the booster and the other using the sustainers that are with the Quantum Leap 2 model.

I had the Quantum Leap 3 which is the same design but comes with extra tube, centering rings, pistons and straps and C.P.R. system. CPR stands for Close Proximity Recovery which involves building an electronics bay for a co-pilot altimeter board. This controls the rocket's second stage firing a black powder charge at apogee and deploying a drogue chute. It records the height the rocket reached at apogee on the electronics board by emitting a series of beeps. The rocket tumbles back to earth, another black powder charge goes off and deploys the main chute at the desired setting on the co-pilot board which is set by dip-switches at various altitudes above the launch site say anything from 800ft down to 200ft. The co-pilot board has a barometric sensor which when switched on at the launch automatically resets itself above sea level.
The kit comes with two sets of quick-switch motor tubes. You can use 29mm; 38mm or 54mm depending how deep your pocket is. All these motor tubes have screw adaptors which you epoxy on then fit inside the 54mm mother tube so you have a configuration of different motors you can use e.g. you could have a 54mm in the booster and a 38mm in the sustainers.
When you start to build it is wise to lay out all the bits and familiarise yourself with the different sections of the kit and follow the instructions. Don't go jumping ahead of yourself for there are different sections you can do only if you are clear how it fits together. It is advisable to do plenty of dry-runs before applying epoxy and there will be a lot of sanding to be done before you apply epoxy.
Make sure you rough up the inside of the air frame where the centering rings fit with 80 grit. You will also need long sticks to apply epoxy to the inside of airframe. When fitting the fins, make sure you score the root edge up the side of the fins about 10mm above the outside dial of the air frame. This is to allow for a good key for the epoxy. I made a tool out of a piece of tool steel and a file-handle which works well.
It is best to tack your fins on with 5min epoxy so you can set the fins at 90degrees to the air frame. Once you are happy with the alignment, you can apply 30 min epoxy to the fin fillets. Be careful that when the epoxy starts to cure, it does not pull your fin. You can smooth your fillets out with a damp index finger just before it sets. It may at times feel warm. Internal fin fillets are a bit more tricky and you will require a lot of patience as there is not a lot of room.
The kits do not come with any motor retention. You can purchase this from different sites but I made mine from a piece of aluminium bar on a lathe which you can see in the photo. There is a circlip groove on the inside to allow quick removal of the motor which I think is good as you haven't got the hassle of screws or nuts dropping in the long grass.The Quantum Leap has since been successfully flown at K-Lob and at local launch meetings as below.

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